Since I did not have a plastic mask to start from I constructed a wire mesh mask.Be carefully molding it to my face then cut out the eyes nose and chin. I suggest to use moleskin and build the wire up away from the face to give you some shrinkage room. The hot glues and celluclay will shrink while cooling and curring.

I aligned the edge of the wire frame to cover my ears this helps with dressing and to help make it more stable.
This was my first time project and changes will be made when another is made. Later add a 3/4" or 1" elastic strape to the back of the ear covers and add a 3" by 14 " card board strape to hang from the center of the wire mesh to the back, this keeps the mask from riding forward or sliding on the face. Cut out for the nose and line it with mule skin to protect the nose, cut away the lower part of the wire frame from the lower jaw amd mouth.

As per Kyoht's  and Goldenwolf's instructions I used a foam cone and shortened it to make the muzzle. To shape the muzzle I used a half round wood rasp, once affixed to the wire frame shap in the space for the nose. Also add room for the nose for an airway

Once I had the muzzle in place I worked on shapping and hot glueing pieces of faom to build up the mask to its rough shape once all the areas were covered then I used the wood rasp to shape the face to a finer detail. At this time I turned the mask over and from the back side filled in the spaces between the foam and the wire mesh to create firmness to the mask. To shape the ears I used foam eges about 6 inchs long, I sliced about one third off the front edge length wise.

My frist set of ears once I got the face set were to small I purchased another set of egg shaped foam balls and cut and reshaped a new set of ears more to the mask size. To find where the ears go look at the inside corner of the eye opposet the ear should be about 30 degrees there should be about one hand width between the ears. Finish shaping the face with the wrasp and fill in the spaces to firm up the mask. Note: during the shaping place mask on your face to see where you need to releave presure points, rough and sharp spots.

For the next layer of the mask I used Celluclay to cover the surface with a even layer and to fill in and further shape the face of the wolf. After it dried the surface was sanded to smoth out, I used a dremel to sand and shape around the eyes and inner ear being carfull not to bare down to hard. "Save some Celluclay to fill in mistakes". I used some red putty to smooth rough spots, it is also know as body filler. It is touchy with certain paints that it will not adhere well and will flake when banged but give a very smooth finish,

On painting the mask I used Crafting paints. I coated the mask with a base of white paint the started to add the gray and browns. The nose with Black. I tried feathering the ears with the paint.

I know what blisters are, the hot glue sticks to the skin. Getting the horse heir in place taking small bundles and rolling them into the hot glue. No way around it, hmm, think I lost my finger prints, ohh, paw prints! I used for highlights gray , and white horse heir, snickers snip, snip, as the old wolf follows around the horses on the farm. Hehe I caught a few doners for the mask. I used white fuex fur for the neck this is for just under the muzzle to cover the chin. do not cover the breathing space for your nose.

I followed Kyoht's instrucktions on constructing a tail and skurt. In its construction I used a braded leather lace going from multi to a single strand to make the inside of the tail, hot glueing it.

Supplies where gotten from: www.crazycrow.com and www.hideandfur.com other supplies can be gotten from local art supply store, Walmart, Micheals, Ben Franklin, etc.